Monte Disgrazia (3678 m)

Disgrazia seen from the Sasso Nero mountain.

An imposing, impressive ridge bridging between the Valmalenco and Val Masino, at 3,678 m Mount Disgrazia is one of the main peaks in the Valtellina and the Rhaetian Alps. Contrary to almost all the other peaks in the Alps along the border, it falls entirely within Italian territory. Imposing, thanks to the isolated position of its peak and its glacier top, Disgrazia is a meeting point of the ridges rising from the Val Masino and the Valmalenco, and offers a first class trig point. Furthermore, it constitutes a clear geological border between the red walls of serpentinite of the Valmalenco and the granite of the Val Masino. Branches of the large glacier descend its slopes; the hanging glacier of Disgrazia to the north, the hanging glacier of Ventina to the north-east, the glacier of Cassandra to the south-east and the glacier of Preda Rossa to the south.

The view from the north, especially for those walking up from Chiareggio to the Muretto pass, offers an almost unbeatable picture.

Great ascents

  • First ascent Leslie Stephen, Edward Shirley Kennedy, Melchior Anderegg and Thomas Cox 24 August 1862
  • First winter ascent Mrs Aubrey Le Blond-Main with the Engadine guides Schocher and Schnitzler 1896
  • First Italian ascent Alessandro Rossi, Francesco Fojanini, Achille Buzzi, Antonio Moro, Giovanni Orsatti with the guides Enrico Schenatti, Joli a porter from Torre S. Maria and Antonio Flematti known as “gatt” from Spriana 7 August 1874
  • North-north-east peak “Corda Molla” Ignazio Dell’Andrino and Braccio De Ferrari August 1914
  • North Wall Giacomo Schenatti and Antonio Lucchetti Albertini 1934
  • First complete descent on skis of the North Wall Giancarlo Lenatti “Bianco” July 1986