Pizzo Bernina (4050 m)

Bernina seen from Sasso Nero.

This is the highest peak in the Rhaetian Alps and is the easternmost 4,000 m in the Alpine arc. The main peak lies in Switzerland, not far from the Spalla of Bernina 4,021 m, also known as Punta Generale Perrucchetti, where the boundary line passes.

In addition to being the symbol of two of the most famous valleys in the Alps, the Valmalenco and the Swissa Engadine, Bernina is in fact the name and "trademark" most internationally well-known for mountaineering and tourism in the central Alps. We leave its description to the words of the man who first set foot on its summit, the Swiss topographer, Johann Coaz, who reached it just before nightfall on the evening of 13 September 1850.

… Bernina stood there like a powerful lord surrounded by the important people in his realm, the other noble peaks and their snow-capped tips. The snow on the glacier of Roseg and Morteratsch lay at its feet and protected it right up to the summit.

Great Ascents

  • First ascent The Swiss topographer, Johann Coaz and his assistants 13 September 1859
  • North Ridge Biancograt Paul Güssfeld, H. Grass and J. Grass 12 August 1878
  • South Gully “Direttissima” Alfredo Corti and Bruno Sala 3 September 1914
  • First descent on skis of South Gully “Direttissima” Giancarlo Lenatti “Bianco” 1979